Again, one of our goals for 2014 is to feature more & more good wines……those which others can be compared to. This will help tasters create a solid base to work from as their tasting adventures continue. It is not as easy as one would think. Here are 4 standouts for our tasting in VINO tonight. Yes, just another really good opportunity to learn! Wines like this just don’t happen along!
In a time where people seek Brunello which have a more King Kong persona, here is a much more elegant, suave, highly refined version masterfully crafted by “Hall of Famer” Vittorio Fiore. In speaking with Vittorio recently, I admire how he champions bio diversity in the vineyard & specifically the appreciation for heirloom & heritage plant material. I also love how he strives for purity, texture & balance in his wines, rather than power, showiness & clamour. Here is an example.
2012 Lionel Faury St Joseph
SENSATIONAL French Syrah—hillside grown (up to 35% slope), granitic soils, stomped by foot, 12 months mostly in large foudres & demi muids (10% new oak)–gloriously Old World Syrah, the way it should be—explosively aromatic, wildly rustic, masculine, stony & authentic. What a perfune!!!!!–meaty, peppery, peppercorns, gamey, lavender/violets. I am sure glad there are still winemakers looking to make more authentic, classical, handcrafted wines like this, that’s for sure!
2012 Domaine Trotereau Quincy “Vieilles Vignes”
TOP echelon Sauvignon Blanc grown in sandy soils & silex with underlying pink limestone. Not too many people will remember that Quincy was the 2nd recognized AOC in France (1936)….& that monks started planting here in the 12th Century. There is a reason, isn’t there? There are today only about 200 hectares planted & the majority of the fruit goes to co-ops. Here is one of the true artisan “boutiques”—dating back to 1804. The vines for this “Vieilles Vignes” cuvee were planted in 1905 through 1943. This wine has a wonderful, flinty kind of minerality which is more masculine than ethereal, but captivating & riveting nonetheless. Here is yet another example of why I am glad some things don’t change!!!!!!
2009 Franz Hirtzberger Gruner Veltliner Smaragd “Rotes Tor”
Hirtzberger is certainly one of the true pillars (5 generations) of Austria’s Wachau Valley. Here is one of their standout, single vineyard Gruner Veltliners—from Rotes Tor, a steep, very rocky hillside. You will be surprised at the intensity, immensity & concentrated character of this wine. Yes, this wine has a thickness, an almost unctuous viscosity, which is not heavy or overbearing to the palate The Oechsle levels must have been really higher than what is labeled. The resounding stoniness helps to buttress the wine’s acidity levels. This is an example of power, character & grandeur, that’s for sure!