We are so fortunate to have so many opportunities to taste some very special older wines at VINO. Here are some of those which truly re-inspired the tasters.
2007 Coche Dury Meursault Premier Cru “Perrieres”–Over the past couple of decades Coche Dury has garnered huge accolades & a cult like following. Theirs are therefore some of the most highly sought after, expensive white wines out there today. While their Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru is their crown jewel, a case can also be made for this particular bottling. On this night, this wine was glorious with such aristocratic grandeur. Truly mesmerizing! It truly was like liquid rock or like licking a piece of limestone, it was so soil driven. After tasting this kind of power & breed, it is understandable why insiders insist that the Meursault Perrieres vineyard should be considered for an upgrade to Grand Cru status.
2007 Lafon Meursault Premier Cru “Charmes”–I was one of those wine lovers who once thought that the Meursault Premier Cru Charmes vineyard should be elevated to Grand Cru status, mainly because of the many vintages I was fortunate to taste from Francois Jobard. I now think otherwise & this wine was yet another example which reconfirmed that for me. Although this 2007 was superb, stylish & VERY captivating with its elegance, refinement, texture & balance….& quite a memorable wine in its own right, it just wasn’t Grand Cru in pedigree. Please don’t take it like I am poo-poo-ing this wine…..I am NOT. I would ceratinly & absolutely love & cherish having bottle after bottle if I could. It just reminded me how wise the decision makers of old were when they classified this vineyard as Premier Cru.
1997 Francois Jobard Meursault Premier Cru “Genevrieres”–This was truly an amazing, breathtaking Chardonnay, one I will remember forever! While Jobard’s wines don’t have the grandeur or flamboyance of those from Coche Dury or even Roulot, they certainly have the pedigree (Grand Cru quality in this case from my point of view), intensity & soulfulness in the core of top echelon wine. This is Old School white Burgundy in all its glory, one after 19 years of bottle age, has blossomed into the “swan”, most tasters would not have foreseen in the wine’s youth. I would also say, this is an ideal time of having this wine, eventhough I was astounded how it just kept opening up more & more as it sat open. I am sure in a blind tasting, I would say this is Grand Cru quality. I would also say, this style of wine is not for everyone though. I know lots of professionals, whose palate I respect, would not really care for this style & profile, especially this aged. I just think……great!…..that just means more for me. Since then, we have tasted the 2002 Francois Jobard Meursault Premier Cru “Genevrieres”, have to say what poor timing. Eventhough the wine was 14 years old, it was so tight, closed down & seemed a waste that we opened it at this time. I learned once again, ripe vintages like this just need WAY more time. I must say, though, this is going to be some kind of wine once it has a chance to resolve itself. Interestingly, I surmise that wine collectors will taste a wine like this, at this state & wonder why they bought it. Some will then look to sell it off, which is why one can sometimes see these kinds of wines offered online & at surprisingly good prices.
2003 Ramonet Chassagne Montrachet Premier Cru “Les Vergers”–here is yet another aged. majestic wine from one of Burgundy’s great white wine producers. This wine was much more civil, classy, aristocratic in style than the previous Jobard wine, which surprised some because 2003 was such a hot vintage. Ramonet has a distinctive style to their wines. While their more famous Grand Cru bottlings display such grandeur, I liked this wine because of its sheer elegance, etherealness, finesse, sophistication & seamlessness, & was clearly reminded why this superstar producer is so highly regarded & why their top tier wines just seem to be harder & harder to get. Furthermore just to shed some light from a different point of view, I remember reading somewhere the following quote (which I apologize if I didn’t get it absolutely right), which said something like– “More importantly, Ramonet wines are very individual. A Ramonet wine is a Ramonet wine before it is a Chassagne, or a Bienvenue, or a Bâtard….or a Montrachet“.
2005 Raveneau Chablis Premier Cru “Monte de Tonnerre”–What did I learn tasting this wine? Yet, another case of opening a wine at the wrong time. Formidable, intensely structured wines like many from the 2005 vintage need lots of time! I sadly did not really enjoy this wine, at least at this point of its life (11 years old). It was like a block of rock. Impenetrable. There really was nothing delicious or ethereal currently present & there was a noticeable bitterness in the finish. I am sure time will resolve all of the hard edges, as Raveneau is a master of his craft & this wine does have a lot to say. Because we are experiencing more & more ripe vintages today, I just need to get better at understanding & estimating when to open a bottle like this, as I know it has a lot to say once it has a chance to resolve itself some more.
2006 Roulot Meursault Premier Cru “Perrieres”–here is yet another example of why so many “insiders” think this vineyard should be elevated to Grand Cru status. This 10 year old wine had mesmerizing perfume–full of minerality, vinosity & pedigree, all done so masterfully & effortlessly AND with such a fine touch. I have heard several wine aficionados were lukewarm about Roulot’s 2006 whites. I liked them at the winery before they were released & I certainly liked this one on this night!