Here is yet another tasting we did for a growing group of young sommeliers from throughout Hawaii in our continual search for “what is good wine”.
We actually started this winetasting off with 3 wines, which will remain unnamed. 2 of the wines, I had purchased from a specialty wine store based upon the recommendation of the salesperson. The first wine, however, was one I had chosen, which we tasted with 1 of the purchased wines BLIND. They were both around the same price point. It was an attempt to show the difference between what I thought was a “good” wine–good intensity, good seamless & complete flow from beginning to end & one that finished balanced. The other was way too oaky, hollow in the middle & quite bitter & alcoholic in the finish.
The next wine we served was a very popular “name” brand also recommended by the salesperson. I also poured the 2011 Au Bon Climat Chardonnay “Sanford & Benedict Vineyard” to compare. Both wines were served blind. I chose the 2011 vintage on purpose. 2011 was a vintage largely lukewarmly received by most of the wine media. On this level of winemaking, however, I am one of those die hards who still believe many can make good wines in high profile vintages, whereas, in the challenging years, we can see the true skill of a winemaker, especially when they can show another perspective on what the vineyard wants to say given the growing conditions. What a difference!!!! Given that they both were around the same price, the choice was an absolute NO brainer. I found Brand X to be very hollow in the middle & quite oaky, bitter & alcoholic in the finish. In comparison, I found the Au Bon Climat to be elegant & long with a wonderful seamless & complete flow on the palate from beginning to end. We then served the 2005 Au Bon Climat Chardonnay “Sanford & Benedict Vineyard” right afterwards. Most wine aficionados would prefer this wine to the 2011. For me, it was a block of rock–hard, severe with oakiness, some bitterness & alcohol poking out in comparison to the 2011. Having had this bottling in many previous vintages, my take would be I loved the transparency, elegance & class of the 2011. The 2005 just needs MUCH more bottle age to resolve itself. It certainly will eventually be the grander of the 2 vintages, but I can’t wait to also check out the evolution of the 2011.
For the next duo of wines, I wanted to show tasters another look at what many would refer to as “Burgundian in style”–2013 Au Bon Climat “Hildegard”, followed by the 1999 Au Bon Climat “Hildegard”. The 2013 was so stony, oaky…full of grandeur & sophistication, eventhough it was almost painfully youthful, hard & primary in its character! The 1999, on the other hand, had mesmerizing minerality in all its glory–reminiscent of well aged Chablis or Champagne–because of its sherry/slight oxidative edges. The core was still solid with lots of vigor. It was a great opportunity to taste young versus old….& what can be. In case you are not familar with this wine, it is a blend of Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc & Aligote, which is named in honor of Hildegard, the wife & once thereforefore the matriarch of Burgundy. Yes, I am also one of those who believe the white Burgundies of old also included grape varieties like this in addition to Chardonnay. And tasting these 2 wines gave a whole ‘nother “look”. Furthermore, I was further amazed at the each wine’s minerality, considering these grapes were grown in sandy loam soils rather than limestone.
The next white wine we served was the 2013 Faury Condrieu. It seems Californian Viognier based white wines are gaining in momentum, even if it is a relatively small category. I just wanted tasters to taste a really “good” rendition of this grape variety AND from the “home” country, just to have something to compare to. Furthermore, I wanted young, aspiring sommeliers to experience yet another “aromatic” white wine to help them grow their repetoire of wines to pair with fusion foods. I thought this wine was so pretty, enticing & captivating in its perfume. I also really liked its seamless flow on the palate & its superb balance. Its been far too long since I had had such a captivating example. (Quite candidly, I have yet to taste one nearly as good, produced in the U.S..
For the next flight, I chose to serve 4 sparkling wines, which I had previously written about in an earlier blog. The intent here was to remind all that there are well priced sparkling wine alternatives, other than those from Champagne, the U.S., Italy & Spain, available.
Lambert Seyssel “Petit Royal”……….Punta Crena Spumante Brut “Colline Savonesi”………Nicole Chanrion Brut “Effervescence”………..Achard-Vincent Clairette de Die “Tradition”