Wines of Santorini, Greece Part One

We finally arrived at Santorini.  And, while the majority of the time, we walked around to the various towns & breathtaking scenic routes, we did squeeze in a little wine time here & there.  Since Santorini is based on a volcano, the soils are very volcanic in nature.  I found it amazing how one could drive around 3 turns in the road & see its 3 main soil types.

In addition, the island has quite a constant, gusting, ocean wind (at least when we were there) which I would say also affects the vines & especially the grapes.  Interestingly, the local vignerons have therefore over the years (centuries?) trained the vines in a very unusual, bird nest looking style, which they call koulara (bush vine training).  It seems outside of the towns, everywhere you look, there are fields of these koulara trained vines.  We were told, they help to shade the grapes from the blazing sun & help shield the grapes from the gusting winds & flying pumice.

We were fortunate to visit several wineries during our stay. 

Venetsanos–this was a recommendation by our tour guide.  The winery & tasting room is located on a hill over a breathtaking view of the sea.  The wines were tasty, cleanly made & would appeal to a wide audience of wine drinkers.  The view, while one sits there tasting is also well worth the visit.

Gaia–we visited this winery based upon the recommendation of the iconic Sigalas winery.  The winery is located right on a beach with the sea right outside.  We were told, they are one of the most innovative on the Island.  They are also highly acclaimed, having been named Top 100 wines by Wines & Spirits multiple times.  One of their   innovations is to submerge a cage of 500 or so bottles–40 to 50 meters under the sea…….for 4 years, just to see how the wines age.  Their white wines are mainly produced from the Assyrtiko grape variety grown on Santorini.  I was fascinated how they are able to masterfully integrate their new oak into their white wines.  Interestingly, they also feature red wines, produced from the Agiorgiotiko grape variety grown in Nemea, of the Peloponnese at 2300 feet in elevation.  One of them, pictured here, was one of the real standout red wines of our trip to Greece.  It was very classy, well textured & balanced.  Cheryle found this wine to be delicious, provocative & a wonderful, memorable treat!  (Also, pictured here is the amazing Melina, whose knowledge, enthusiasm & beaming personality completely won us over!  She also arranged a visit to a little winery, in fact had her friend drive us there, which would surprisingly be the most profound visit of the trip & truly one of the memorable visits of my whole career.  Thank you Melina)!

Faros–we were taken by our tour guide to a VERY unique, small shop, run by Maria Valhou, named Faros products.  She is especially known for her tomatoes & tomato products, but she also produces fava, chloro cheese, capers, caper leaves AND “homemade” style wines, all uber naturally.  Where some people say such things, Maria lives it & has developed quite the following because of her beliefs.  Her products are amazing!  I was a little apprehensive of what her wines would taste like, given her au naturale approach & her shying away from sulfur use.  (We all have had such wines, & in many instances find wine with many flaws).  Honestly, I would say her wines are NOT for everyone.  They have quite an oxidative edge & all kinds of atypical qualities one would not normally associate with wine.  Still, I have to say, I was quite moved by several of them.  They were so personal & I was taken how she fawned over them, as if they were her children.  She is a true artisan & her wines also reminded me of her devout beliefs, passion & dedication.  Thank you Maria for sharing your heart.

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