Lighter in Body?

I think most people will agree, today’s wines are getting thicker & riper than in the past.

I had one winemaker insist it is because of better vine material, much better understanding on what to do in the vineyard & certainly a better understanding of what to do in the winemaking.

Others say it is because of the frequency of more & more sundrenched vintages.

The point of this post is not to discussed those topics (& I am sure many others related).

I am wondering what to do about it.  Today’s German Riesling Kabinett level wines are now at ripeness numbers which were yesterday’s Auslese levels.  So, those fleeting, light & wonderfully ethereal Mosel Rieslings have, today, a much different profile.  That’s not a bad thing at all.  In fact, I am sure those German Riesling producers are thrilled & good for them.

Over the past few years, I have been tasting the Marquiliani Sciaccarellu Rosé , a very light, ethereal pink wine from the island of Corsica, imported to the U.S. by Kermit Lynch.  What initially caught my interest was a note I had read written by Kermit about this wine–“Drinking her rosé is like drinking a cloud. There’s an absolute weightlessness to it. Nothing is left on the palate but perfume.”   After reading that, I was immediately bent on trying this wine!  He was right, OMG, what a unique wine–tasty & seemingly light as air on the palate.

So, that brings me to my question.  If this family can produce such a wine, in a relatively warm growing spot like the terraces of Aghione on the eastern coast of Corsica, with its schist, granite, silt soils & a grape variety like Sciaccarellu (& 10% Syrah), which often results in rustic, rather masculine & hearty red wines in other spots on the island, why can’t other places & winemakers do something along these lines?

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